Zippers 101
*Sorry about the comments--I think it's better now. I wondered why it was so quiet.
Today, I installed the zipper on Eris, and I did it on the first try. Long-time readers will know that I HATE sewing. Mostly because I suck at it. Part of the reason stems from the fact that I don't pay attention to the little details (like I do with knitting) and part is general ineptitude. However, today, with the help of a lovely locale (the cottage) and my super-fab mother-in-law Marilyn, seamstress extraordinaire, I figured it out and finished Eris.
I carefully documented each step as best I could to share with you. So, here's how to sew in a zipper.
Step One: lay your cardigan on a flat surface like a table with the right side facing and line up the edges. Your garment should be washed and blocked.
Step Two: Using a contrasting yarn, baste the opening of your cardigan closed. Be sure to catch the same stitch on each side (ie the same one in from the edge) so it's the same on both sides. When you're done, turn the garment inside out and lay it nice and flat like before.
This was the excellent advice of my mother-in-law. With the front sewn closed you can be sure edges line up and your zipper will be even on both sides (my usual problem--one side is not the same as the other).
Step Three: Lay your zipper (wrong side up) on your zipper facing and pin it in place. Then using contrast thread, baste it in place near the teeth so it will stay in place. You can also baste it on the edge too if your paranoid or just thorough.
Step Four: Using your garment-coloured thread sew the zipper using an overcast stitch along the edge of the zipper being sure to catch the same vertical stitch along the edge. On this sweater it's easy because it will be where you sewed down the zipper facing. There's no picture because you can't see the thread-looks just like the one above.
Step Five: Turn right-side out and undo your front edge basting (the yarn one). The zipper is perfect oui? If so, sew another seam using a backstitch up the middle of the zipper tape along both edges for extra stability.
Step Six: Remove remaining basting and bask in your sewing perfection (though my photo skills need work).
Tomorrow: Pictures of me wearing Eris. Marilyn and I decided to celebrate the sewing achievement with some Bloody Caesars (extra spicy) and it was dark by the time I remembered to take photos!







Ooh! Eris looks so nice, I can't wait to see it modeled!
Posted by: Rebecca | September 04, 2005 at 12:09 PM
well done, it looks really good. I will use your method next ... got a zipper I need to redo )-:
I also had a message for you yesterday about the choice of colour. We have a "grook" in Danish, written by the poet Piet Hein, saying something like "if you have a difficult choice to make its a good idea to toss a coin - not that the choice should be done by gambling, but as soon as the coin is flying upwards - you know exactly what you hope for..! (In danish it rhymes)
so, it doesnt really matters what the pol says.. it just helps you to know what you really want yourself.
- oh so clever ;-)
IDA
Posted by: IDA | September 04, 2005 at 01:02 PM
Looks awesome!! Great job!
Posted by: JessaLu | September 04, 2005 at 01:19 PM
That is exactly how I do zippers, on the advice of a very clever sewer some years ago.
The spicy ceasars sound yummy. Horseradish?
Posted by: stephanie | September 04, 2005 at 05:57 PM
Aaah, wonderful explanation and advice! I'm planning on doing the sweater version of Eris but I still haven't sewn the zipper into last winter's Ribby Cardi because I don't dare ... Thanks so much, I'll give this a try!
Posted by: Tatjana | September 04, 2005 at 06:33 PM
The zipper tutorial is great. I have just started Eris, and I was already worrying about putting in the zipper! Now I know where I'll go for help. ;) Looking forward to the modelled pics.
Posted by: Katy | September 04, 2005 at 07:45 PM
Yeah, I couldn't so much see your pictures, but just reading the steps gave me some good pointers. Great idea to baste the front closed!
Posted by: Vicki | September 04, 2005 at 11:32 PM
Thanks for this. I've got two projects on the needles that will need zippers. I HATE sewing in zippers, so was toying with the idea of dropping the finished sweaters plus zippers off with a seamstress to have them sewn in... But you've inspired me to tackle them myself.
Posted by: cari | September 07, 2005 at 10:54 AM
Thanks for the tutorial, I have two zippers to install and will definitely refer to your instructions.
Eris is lovely and looks fantastic on you. Great job!
Posted by: lisa | September 07, 2005 at 02:00 PM
What great advice! I've avoided sweaters with zippers -- for reasons very similar to your own (sewing, bleach!) -- but now I just might try it!
Posted by: She Who Reads | September 09, 2005 at 06:22 PM
Where did you find the pretty zipper on the white sweater? (The one with the pearly thing on the zipper pull.) Thanks!
Posted by: Patsy | October 10, 2005 at 12:00 AM